London — St James’s to Savile Row

Three centuries of gentlemen’s London in one unhurried line: hats and boots on St James’s, shirts and scent on Jermyn Street, the great grocer on Piccadilly, then through the Burlington Arcade to the Row — finishing in Tudor timbers.

1. 0:00 — Lock & Co Hatters 6 St James’s Street
   The world’s oldest shop of any kind still trading, 1676 — Nelson’s bicorne on file; the word ‘bowler’ was coined at this counter.
2. 0:25 — John Lobb 9 St James’s Street
   Next door but one: the bespoke bootmaker — ask to peer at the last room, ten thousand wooden feet of the famous.
3. 0:50 — Berry Bros. & Rudd 3 St James’s Street
   Across the way, floors sloping since 1698 — the coffee scales weighed Byron; the cellars run under the street.
4. 1:15 — Floris 89 Jermyn Street
   Turn into Jermyn: perfumers at this address since 1730 — No. 89 was Ian Fleming’s, and therefore Bond’s.
5. 1:35 — Turnbull & Asser 71–72 Jermyn Street
   Churchill’s shirtmaker — the siren suit patterns survive; three-button cuffs since 1885.
6. 2:00 — Fortnum & Mason 181 Piccadilly
   The eau-de-nil grocer, 1707 — catch the hour: Mr Fortnum and Mr Mason bow to each other above the door.
7. 2:35 — Anderson & Sheppard 32 Old Burlington Street
   Through the Burlington Arcade (mind the Beadles) to the home of the drape — the soft English shoulder Naples answered.
8. 3:00 — Drake's 9 Savile Row
   The Row’s modern ease — the tie-maker that grew into the happiest shop in tailoring.
9. 3:30 — Liberty London Great Marlborough Street
   Finale in the Tudor galleon — timbers of two warships, scarves like stained glass, creaking stairs included.

Paxton & Whitfield’s cheese counter (93 Jermyn) and a hot-towel shave at Trumper’s are honorable extensions; Bates’s hats live on inside Hilditch & Key. If rain arrives — this is London — you are never more than fifty yards from an umbrella of consequence.