ORBIS city intelligence

Buying in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence: Everything Comes From a Plant

Olive and almond. Lavender and fruit. Every shop here works something grown nearby, which makes an unusually coherent afternoon if you buy in that order.

Moulin du Calanquet: a working mill, not a shop selling oil S1

The oil is pressed where it is sold, which is the reason to come here rather than buy from a grocer. Take the tapenade and preserved olives from the same shelf while you are there.

Ask which oils suit finishing and which suit cooking, then taste before choosing a size. Check the volume against your baggage allowance if you are flying.

Confiserie Lilamand: candied fruit made the slow way since 1866 S2

Five generations have worked candied fruit here at 20 rue de la Commune and 5 avenue Albert Schweitzer. Note that the same house keeps a branch at 13 rue de la République in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Candied fruit takes weeks of graduated syrup baths, which is why it keeps well. Ask how long each variety lasts and whether it needs to stay cool.

La Savonnerie de Provence: ask what is actually in the bar S3

Savon de Marseille is a formulation rather than a style, traditionally made with olive oil and sea water. Try the donkey-milk soap as well, which is made here alongside the standard bars.

Ask which bars are cooked in the traditional way, because the name carries no legal protection. Ask about weight before buying several, since soap is heavier than it looks.

Florame: the essence rather than the finished bar S4

Organic essential oils and skincare are the trade here, which puts it one step back up the supply chain from the soap houses.

Ask which oils are distilled locally and which are sourced from elsewhere. Ask about cabin restrictions before buying anything in a large glass bottle.

Le Petit Duc works historic-recipe biscuits and Provençal almonds, which is the sweet half of the table that Lilamand does not cover.