Bespoke shirts are cut upstairs at Budd Shirtmakers, the Piccadilly Arcade house established in 1910. Grandad-collar shirts also form part of its offering, placing a named collar style alongside commissioned work. Madrid's Camisería Burgos offers guayaberas and Tebas as well as shirts, continuing the business founded in 1906. Naples's E. Marinella makes seven-fold ties, with its original Riviera di Chiaia shop occupying twenty square metres.
Budd has made shirts and sold haberdashery from Piccadilly Arcade since Harold Budd opened there in 1910 as the arcade's first tenant. The shop and cutting room stand at 3 Piccadilly Arcade, where bespoke and made to measure shirts are cut alongside a ready to wear range. The Budd collar and the Budd stripe remain house signatures, as do Madder silk ties.
Best for Bespoke and made to measure shirts from a 1910 Piccadilly Arcade shop
Budd has traded as a gentlemen's haberdashery and shirtmaker since 1910. That year Harold Budd opened at 4 Piccadilly Arcade, the first shop in an arcade completed the previous year. He took a ground-floor position to catch gentlemen passing between the clubs of Pall Mall and the establishments of Piccadilly. He built the shop's reputation on bespoke shirts cut and sewn by hand. Harold Budd laid down much of what still defines the house. The Budd collar and the Budd stripe are his, as are the Budd bow and a lasting fondness for Madder silks. By 1919 George Gershwin was naming Budd in a lyric for the Broadway musical La La Lucille. After the bombing of 1941, Budd was the first tenant to move back into the Arcade. The shop and cutting room now stand together at 3 Piccadilly Arcade. Bespoke and made to measure shirts are cut there for clients in London and at trunk shows in the United States. The tiny shop holds ready to wear shirts and nightwear as well as dresswear and a wall of ties. The staff are largely trained from within, and the house says there is little turnover among them.
The tiny Riviera di Chiaia shop tying the world's most famous seven-fold ties since 1914 — presidents dressed here. Original shop is 20 m². In the 1980s Italian president Francesco Cossiga presented boxes of five Marinella ties to visiting heads of state.
Best for Hand-made Neapolitan ties and small leather gifts.
Eugenio Marinella opened his small shop on Naples' Riviera di Chiaia in 1914 with a specific ambition: to bring English gentleman's style to Naples, better made. The house became famous for one object — the seven-fold-quality tie, cut generously from English-printed silks in small-scale patterns, hand-finished in Naples — and its client list grew to include presidents, royals, and statesmen who order by the dozen. The shop itself is tiny and largely unchanged, opening early in the Neapolitan tradition, with the espresso offered to morning customers part of the ritual. Ties remain the core: the silks are selected in England, made up by hand in Naples, and the house's proportions — slightly wider, unmistakably its own — have resisted every trend. A Marinella tie is Naples' most exportable object: a century of one family doing one thing at the highest level.
Arrive early in the morning as Neapolitans do; the small shop rewards the quiet hour, and the seasonal printed silks sell through quickly.
Galán Camisería has outfitted men in central Seville since 1905, stocking shirts, suits, knitwear and outerwear from brands like Barbour, Fred Perry and its own Isaac Galán label. The shop trades from Calle Sagasta and ships its tailoring and sportswear range through its online store.
Ivy League clothier founded in 1902 near Yale's campus by Jacobi Press, credited with popularizing the natural-shoulder 'sack suit' and Shaggy Dog shetland sweater. NYC flagship sits by the Yale Club at 51 E 44th St; second shop at 501 Madison Ave.
Best for True Ivy oxford shirts.
J. Press was founded in 1902 in New Haven, Connecticut, by Jacobi Press, a Latvian immigrant who partnered with local tailor Herman Goldbaum to open a shop serving Yale's undergraduates. The company became closely associated with the 'Ivy League look' - natural-shoulder, undarted sack suits, Harris Tweed jackets, flap-pocket oxford shirts, and reversible balmacaan coats. By the 1920s the shop's reputation extended to cultural figures including Cary Grant and Duke Ellington. J. Press also built a second life in Japan: its clothing appeared in the 1965 photo book 'Take Ivy,' fueling a decades-long 'Ametora' fashion obsession there. In New York, the brand's flagship operates at 51 East 44th Street, across from Grand Central Terminal, with a second shop at 501 Madison Avenue.
Kahala has manufactured aloha shirts in Honolulu since 1936, making it the oldest operating apparel company in Hawaii. The family-owned label still produces most of its collection locally rather than shifting production overseas.
Kamehameha Garment Company dates to 1936 as one of Hawaii's first wholesale apparel manufacturers and an early producer of the aloha shirt. Garments are still cut and sewn in Hawaii, drawing prints from the company's original vintage archives.
LBM 1911 makes softly tailored jackets, suits and shirts with a relaxed Bolognese character. Made-to-measure options include specialised collars, while ready-to-wear offers an introduction to the house fit.
Founded in 1919 in Bielefeld by Walter Seidensticker, who began making shirts in a room of his parents' house with a 5,000-mark loan he repaid within a year, this family-owned shirtmaker remains headquartered in Bielefeld and now exports to more than 78 countries.
Best for German heritage shirts.
Seidensticker was founded in Bielefeld in 1919 by Walter Seidensticker, who started the business with a 5,000-mark loan and began producing shirts in a small room of his parents' house. Within the first year he had repaid the loan, and turnover had already reached 70,000 marks, an early sign of the company's rapid growth in what was then Germany's textile-manufacturing heartland around Bielefeld. The company has stayed in family ownership and management since its founding, and its long run as a shirt specialist has made it one of the highest-volume shirtmakers in Germany. More than a century after Walter Seidensticker's start, the company still designs and produces men's and women's shirt collections, now exporting to more than 78 countries, while remaining headquartered in its founding city of Bielefeld.
Turnbull & Asser's flagship occupies 71–72 Jermyn Street in London's St James's, where the house has traded since 1903. The shop carries classic and seasonal clothing alongside shirts and accessories, with original fittings still part of the interior. Customers seeking bespoke shirts should distinguish this flagship from the separate Bury Street service described by the house.
Best for Shirts and menswear on Jermyn Street
Turnbull & Asser's Jermyn Street flagship presents the house through shirts and the clothes worn with them. The shop has occupied 71–72 Jermyn Street since 1903, and original fittings remain part of the interior. That date belongs to the move into this building, rather than to the beginning of the company. The current collection brings classic pieces together with seasonal clothing and accessories, allowing a visit to extend beyond a single shirt.
The house describes shirt and tie production through its Gloucester and Sidcup factories and the work of their cutters and sewers. That account gives a more precise sense of manufacture than treating everything on the shop floor as British-made. It also separates production from the services offered at each London address. The Jermyn Street shop is the flagship for viewing the collection, while the bespoke shirt service described by the house operates on Bury Street. Decide which kind of purchase you have in mind before arranging a visit, particularly if the aim is to commission rather than buy ready-to-wear.
Vaish at Rivoli is a bespoke tailoring house at Regal Building, next to PVR Rivoli Cinema, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Founded in 1940 by O.P. Vaish, it is now run by his son Ashok and grandson Sachin, making custom suits and formal menswear only.
Best for Third-generation bespoke suits, shirts, tuxedos, overcoats, and Indian formalwear
Vaish at Rivoli is a bespoke tailoring house in Connaught Place, New Delhi, founded in 1940 by O.P. Vaish. Business listings describe Mr. Vaish beginning his tailoring career serving Connaught Place's clientele during the 1940s, a period when the area also hosted Allied military officers stationed in Delhi during the Second World War. The business has stayed in family hands for three generations and is now run by his son, Ashok Vaish, and grandson, Sachin.
The shop is located at 25, Regal Building, next to the former PVR Rivoli Cinema in Connaught Place, and specializes exclusively in made-to-measure tailoring — sources are consistent that it does not stock ready-made suits.
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