Hand blocking shapes the hats at Antica Manifattura Cappelli, where Patrizia Fabri works with the Roman workshop's original forms. The business dates to 1936, while Cologne's Diefenthal 1905 traces its hatmaking history to 1905. Its workshop makes bespoke felt fedoras and bowlers, with Harris Tweed among the cloths used by the house. Salento's Doria 1905 makes fedoras and panamas in Italy, continuing the Apulian hat business founded by the D'Oria family.
Rome’s oldest hat workshop — the Cirri family’s 1936 laboratorio, revived by Patrizia Fabri; the only hatter honored as a Historical Shop of Rome, blocking on original wooden forms in Via degli Scipioni.
Heritage headwear line from the Bailey Hat Company, founded in Los Angeles in 1922 by Kansas-born George S. Bailey. Known for dressing 1920s-40s Hollywood leading men including Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant and Gary Cooper; now made in the USA under Bollman Hat Company ownership since 1986.
Best for Fedoras, flat caps
George S. Bailey, born in Salina, Kansas in 1897, founded the Bailey Hat Company in Los Angeles in 1922. The company built its name dressing Hollywood's leading men - Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant and Gary Cooper among them - popularizing fedoras, derbies and other classic styles through the 1920s. The Bailey brand was acquired by the Bollman Hat Company in 1986 and has since broadened into Western and outdoor collections. The 'Bailey 1922' line is positioned as the brand's heritage collection, emphasizing American craftsmanship.
American hat maker founded in 1922, known for fedoras, pork pies and Panama hats once worn by Golden Age Hollywood stars including Fred Astaire and Humphrey Bogart. The modern Bailey 1922 line uses the brand's water-repellent LiteFelt finish.
Best for Hats, contemporary
Bailey of Hollywood has made hats since 1922, building a reputation on West Coast style paired with old-world felting and finishing techniques. Its fedoras, flat caps and pork pies were worn by Hollywood stars of the studio era, including Fred Astaire and Humphrey Bogart. Bailey 1922 is the company's classic dress and everyday collection today, made in premium wool felt, fur felt and straw. A signature feature is the LiteFelt finish, a treatment that takes natural, unstiffened wool felt and makes it water-repellent and better able to hold its shape.
North American hat brand founded in 1917 in Guelph, Canada, known for fur-felt fedoras. Acquired by Dorfman Pacific in 2011; production shifted to the US-based Milano Hat Company from 2012, which continues the brand's felt-hat styles today.
Best for Fedora, caps
Biltmore was established in 1917 in Guelph, Ontario, Canada, taking its name from New York's Biltmore Hotel. It became a leading name in Canadian hatmaking, known for fur-felt hats. After 95 years as a Canadian company, Biltmore was acquired by Dorfman Pacific in 2011, and from 2012 its hats have been produced by the Milano Hat Company, a US-based Dorfman Pacific subsidiary.
A Cologne hat house dating to 1905, Diefenthal designs in its own atelier and runs a hat workshop making bespoke felt fedoras, bowlers and panamas for its Diefenthal & Sohn and Diefenthal & Tochter lines. It works with heritage cloths such as Harris Tweed and keeps shops on Friesenwall, Severinstrasse and Kettengasse.
Italian hat maker founded 1905 in Salento, Apulia (Maglie, Lecce province) by the D'Oria family; handmade fedoras, panamas and flat caps in the Salento tailoring tradition, still made in Italy.
Best for Artisanal fedoras and experimental sculptural brims from an Apulian hatmaker
Doria 1905 traces to a small tailoring workshop run by the D'Oria family in Maglie, in the Lecce province of Apulia's Salento peninsula, in the early 20th century. The workshop formalized as Sabino D'Oria and Figli in 1937, initially producing children's clothing before specializing in hats. The brand marked its 110th anniversary in 2015. Today Doria 1905 makes handcrafted headwear - panama hats, fedoras, wide-brimmed and waterproof styles, baseball caps, bucket hats, and traditional Salento coppole - using panama straw, linen and leather, all made in Italy.
Vuorikatu 4 A, 00100 Helsinki, Finland / Helsinki / Finland
Founded in Vyborg 1901 by Elis R. Wahlman; Wiipuri.fi and MyHelsinki confirm a Helsinki walk-in still selling handmade Finnish doctoral hats, ylioppilaslakit and classic felt hats.
A New York hat store, open since 1911, JJ Hat Center sells fedoras, flat caps, Panamas and beanies from its Fifth Avenue shop. Heritage brands like Borsalino and Stetson sit alongside its own JJ Hats line, with worldwide shipping through the online store.
Established in Cuenca in 1939, K. Dorfzaun makes hand-finished toquilla-straw hats with artisan weavers and sells them from its Gil Ramírez Dávalos storefront. The company emphasizes long-term work with weaving communities, social responsibility and environmental sustainability.
Best for Export-grade toquilla straw hats with a documented family history
Founded in Buffalo, New York in 1920 by Ehrhardt Koch as the E. Koch Cap Company and renamed New Era in 1922, the headwear maker became MLB's official cap supplier; Koch's son Harold developed the 59FIFTY fitted cap in 1954, and it reached the public market in 1980.
Best for The 59FIFTY cap, official MLB headwear since 1920
New Era was founded in Buffalo, New York in 1920 by Ehrhardt Koch, who borrowed $1,000 from his sister Rose and $1,000 from a co-worker to start the E. Koch Cap Company, producing caps on the third floor of a building on Genesee Street with a staff of 14, including Koch's sister and son. In 1922 Koch renamed the company New Era Cap. The company's signature product, the 59FIFTY fitted cap, was developed by Ehrhardt's son Harold Koch in 1954 to standardize on-field caps across Major League Baseball; by the 1970s it was worn by the majority of MLB teams, and it went on sale to the public in 1980. New Era remains headquartered in Buffalo and continues to serve as official on-field headwear supplier to MLB, alongside licensed caps for the NFL and NBA.
Founded in 1911 by Tom and Jim Peters as a shoeshine stand that grew into hatmaking, the shop has occupied its Houston Street location since 1933. Fifth-generation hatter Brad Peters now shapes custom felt and straw hats on the premises.
The Ryon saddle trade traces to 1944, when Little Windy Ryon opened his shop in the Stockyards, and each saddle is still built by hand for a specific horse and rider. The store also hand-creases hats and stocks Western goods on North Main Street.
Best for Hand-built custom saddles
Sean Ryon Western Store & Saddle Shop stands at 2707 North Main Street in the Fort Worth Stockyards. The trade behind it starts with Windy Ryon. He rodeoed for several years and then bought the Joe Edelbrock saddle shop. A few years later he sold it and opened his own store, named Windy Ryon's, in the Fort Worth Stockyards in 1944. The Texas Rodeo Cowboy Hall of Fame records it as a gathering place for cowboys and ranch hands, with Windy usually in the store and trading stories. His friends held the first Windy Ryon Memorial Roping in his memory in 1973, and that roping still runs each year with a scholarship programme attached. In 1959 Windy expanded the business with his son Don Jackson Ryon III, known as Whistle. In 1989 Sean Ryon continued the family line by opening the present store. Saddles are built by hand and fitted to a horse and its rider, and the shop points customers to its own gallery or to a show pen to see the work. Hand creased hats and made to measure boots complete the trade. One family has kept the shop in the Stockyards for three generations.
A Panama hat house trading under the Serrano name since 1905, presenting woven men's and women's straw collections through a bilingual Spanish-English catalogue. The 1905 founding date places it among the long-established Ecuadorian families of the toquilla-straw hat trade.
Smithbilt has blocked and finished felt and straw hats in Calgary since 1919, and its white cowboy hat became the city's civic emblem and a Stampede fixture. The workshop still steams, shapes, and sands each hat by hand, building custom fits alongside its signature ten-gallon whites.
Sombreros López is an Ecuadorian family hatmaker dating to 1920, producing handmade toquilla and felt hats with custom options. The shop is most useful for buyers who want construction and material choice rather than generic souvenirs.
Best for Family hatmaking spanning more than a century
Family hat-making house founded 1922 in Montappone, Marche by Attilio and Ester Sorbatti; now run by the third generation from a factory at Via Leopardi 18 in the town's International Hat Center, producing felt, panama, and flat-cap styles.
Best for Handcrafted hats, Panama
Sorbatti was founded in 1922 in Montappone, in Italy's Marche region, by Attilio Sorbatti and his wife Ester. Montappone and the surrounding area are historically known as one of Italy's principal hat-manufacturing districts, and Sorbatti has operated there continuously across three generations: from founder Attilio to his sons Filippo, Ermanno, and Nerino, and on to grandchildren Marco and Attilio, who run the company today. The factory operates from Via Leopardi 18, within Montappone's 'International Hat Center' industrial zone. Sorbatti produces men's and women's hats and caps, including felt hats, panamas, and flat caps, describing its process as attentive from raw-material selection through final packaging. The brand is sold through specialist hat retailers internationally, including US retailer Hats in the Belfry.