Dior

Christian Dior's first collection in February 1947 was named the New Look on the spot, and no debut in fashion history had comparable effect: cinched waists and extravagant skirts that ended wartime austerity overnight and re-established Paris as fashion's capital. The house he founded at 30 Avenue Montaigne has since passed through a remarkable succession of designers — Yves Saint Laurent at twenty-one, Marc Bohan, Ferré, Galliano, Raf Simons, Maria Grazia Chiuri — each reinterpreting the founder's codes: the Bar jacket, the cannage quilting, the Lady Dior bag named for Princess Diana, Miss Dior perfume. The Florence boutique on Via della Vigna Nuova delivers the full range in concentrated form. The Lady Dior and Bar jacket remain the objects that carry the archive most directly; the beauty line offers the house at accessible scale.

The Lady Dior rewards buying in the smaller sizes where the cannage proportions are most faithful to the original; the beauty counter's lip products are the honest entry point.