ORBIS city intelligence

Lyon Shopping Route — Presqu'île, Croix-Rousse, and the Halles

Lyon's route is three chapters: the Presqu'île for silk as trade and charcuterie as a house, Croix-Rousse for the working loom and the single bakery, the Halles for a stall with a name. Do not spend the day collecting canut photographs on one hill.

Morning: Presqu'île, workshop first

Start at Atelier de Soierie, the Brochier print workshop at 33 rue Romarin (45.76804, 4.83424), a short walk from Hôtel de Ville. Ask for the method. Buy one square if the print is the point. Brochier Soieries also keeps a retail door at the Grand Hôtel-Dieu, 18 quai Jules Courmont (45.75972, 4.83739), ten minutes south along the Rhône side of the Presqu'île. Do not add a third silk shop before lunch. The Vieux Lyon doors on rue du Bœuf can wait.

From Romarin, walk south through Terreaux. Chocolat Voisin has a door at 24 place des Terreaux (45.76722, 4.83402). If you want the coussin later, note 11 place Bellecour (45.75820, 4.83347) and buy only one box. Au Gant Grenoblois at 9 rue Constantine (45.76707, 4.83199) is two minutes west of the square. The name is Grenoble. The door is Lyon. WeDressFair at 4 rue des Capucins (45.76905, 4.83280) sits just north of Terreaux if the errand is a screened jacket rather than silk.

Keep walking south toward Bellecour. Charcuterie Reynon at 13 rue des Archers (45.75941, 4.83428) is the 1937 house: rosette, Jésus, pâté en croûte. Buy what you will eat, or what the shop will pack cold. If the praline tart is the afternoon problem, Maison Sève also keeps 29 Quai Saint-Antoine (45.76220, 4.83201) on the Saône, a short west drift from Archers.

Midday: Croix-Rousse, loom and loaf

Go up for two addresses, not for atmosphere. The climb from Romarin onto the plateau is the point of the second chapter. Maison des Canuts at 10/12 rue d'Ivry (45.77713, 4.83369) is the working Jacquard and the Philéone boutique: fabric by the metre, or a house accessory. The demonstration teaches the loom. It does not buy the object for you.

On the way up or down, stop at Bonomia, 9 rue des Pierres Plantées on the Pentes (45.77318, 4.83216). Buy a loaf. That is the hill as a table, not as a postcard. If Sève is still the errand and you did not use Quai Saint-Antoine, 10 rue Victor Fort (45.77537, 4.83114) is the Croix-Rousse door, a few minutes west of the plateau streets.

Do not add a third silk shop on the hill. You already have Romarin. The plateau is for the loom and the loaf. If you start photographing traboules before you have asked a question at Ivry, you have left the route.

Afternoon: the Halles as a surface

Cross to Part-Dieu. Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse at 102 cours Lafayette (45.76340, 4.85042) is a market, not a maison. Shop Maison Sibilia, the 1922 stall, for andouillette or saucisson brioché cut to order. Sève also has a Halles door if the tart is still open. Do not treat the roof as the author.

If the day still has a room

Bernachon at 42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt (45.76896, 4.84783) is a separate chocolate chapter in the 6th, north of the Halles, not a detour from Bellecour. Le Bon Jean at 26 rue Chevreul (45.74888, 4.83889) is the 7th-arrondissement ham counter, south of Guillotière, useful if you want to see the craft off the postcard map. Pralines Roses (Saint Jean Délices) at 19 rue Saint-Jean (45.76300, 4.82795) is Old Lyon pink praline, west of the Saône, not a silk stop. Malfroy at 153 route de Vourles, Saint-Genis-Laval (45.67755, 4.78888) is a weekday factory shop, a different trip.

With ninety minutes, do Romarin and Reynon. With a half day, add Croix-Rousse (Canuts and Bonomia). With a full day, finish at the Halles and keep Bernachon or the 7th as a choice.

Skip Printemps, skip a Nantes sneaker, skip a Marseillan cellar. Those doors exist. They are not this walk.

The Presqu'île shows the trade. Croix-Rousse shows the loom at work. The Halles show a house inside a market.