Anderson & Sheppard has been a Savile Row tailoring house since 1906. Per Anderson set the fluid cutting style that still distinguishes it. The house cut favours easy movement and a natural body line, passed down through an unbroken chain of cutters and tailors. The firm currently trains nine apprentices, holds a Royal Warrant as tailors to the King, and works from 32 Old Burlington Street.
Best for Bespoke Savile Row tailoring in the house's fluid, easy-moving cut
Roman power tailoring since 1945, hand-made in its Penne school-factory — Bond's suits from Abruzzo hands. 1959: Fonticoli opened production in his hometown Penne. 1985: Scuola di Alta Sartoria opened there. it closed 2020 and later reopened (16 students, average age 19; 800 of 1,300 course hours are sewing).
Best for The world's most polished suits.
Brioni solved the problem every luxury craft house eventually faces — where will the next hands come from? — by building a school. In Penne, a hill town in Abruzzo, the house founded in Rome in 1945 runs its own tailoring academy alongside its workshops: young cutters trained for years in the Brioni method before their work ever touches a client, the town and the house grown into one continuous apprenticeship. Roman power tailoring is not just made in Penne; it is taught there, generation after generation, by design.
The result on the hanger is the suit at its most cinematic. Brioni dressed James Bond — the character whose tailoring is a plot point — and the fit that made 007 look invincible is the house signature: strong shoulders, a clean sweep, hand work throughout, the Roman conviction that a suit is armor that should photograph well. Where Naples softened the jacket, Rome polished it; Brioni is that polish at its highest grade.
Every suit is hand-made in the house's own facilities — no license, no outsourcing of the thing itself — which is what the Penne academy protects: a supply chain of skill. Luxury houses can buy fabric, buildings, and campaigns; they cannot buy a town that has been training tailors for them since the postwar years. The world's most polished tailoring, taught, made, and guarded in one place — and measured, fitted, and worn wherever power dresses for the camera.
Polish menswear maker opened 22 October 1945 in Bytom on the site of a former garment workshop; grew from 110 workers to producing 1.5 million suits a year by 1975; still manufactures suits in Poland today.
Best for Suits, Business Wear
Bytom's menswear factory opened on 22 October 1945 in the town of Bytom, established on the ruins of a former German sewing workshop that had produced protective clothing. It started small, with 110 employees and 64 sewing machines, focused on men's suits, jackets and trousers. Output scaled quickly through the postwar decades: around 200,000 suits a year by the early 1950s, one million by 1970, and 1.5 million by 1975, making 'Bytom' a recognized name for suiting during the Polish People's Republic era. The company has been listed on the Warsaw Stock Exchange since 1 January 1995. The brand continues to operate today, still associated with suits manufactured in Poland, and is sold through its own stores and shopping-center locations across the country.
Canali has tailored suits in Lombardy since 1934, when brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali founded the workshop. Still family-owned and run by the third generation, every garment is made in the company's own Italian factories rather than licensed out.
Best for Precise suits and refined formalwear.
Canali has been making suits in Lombardy since 1934, when brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali founded the workshop that three generations later still refuses the industry's favorite shortcut: nothing is licensed out, and every garment is produced in the company's own Italian factories — a vertical integrity even grander names can't claim.
The house style is Milanese propriety with soft engineering — jackets built on light canvassing, shoulders natural, cloth from the best mills, cut for men who want authority without armor. The Kei jacket, unlined and deconstructed, translated the tailoring for a casual century; made-to-measure runs through the flagships for everything else.
Still wholly family-owned and run by the third generation, Canali outfits diplomats, executives and grooms across ninety-odd countries without ever chasing a runway moment. The proposition is almost radical in its patience: excellent suits, made by the same family, in the same country, for as long as anyone asking can remember.
German tailoring house founded in 1925 as Bekleidungswerk August Gross in Franconia; headquartered in Hersbruck, near Nuremberg, since 1963. Still family-run under the Carl Gross and CG - Club of Gents labels, marking its 100th anniversary in 2025.
Best for Accessible German tailoring
Carl Gross traces to 1925, when the company was founded as Bekleidungswerk August Gross in Franconia, Germany, with about 20 employees making custom clothing. The business relocated its headquarters to Hersbruck, near Nuremberg, in 1963, and Hersbruck has remained its administrative, design, manufacturing and logistics center ever since. The company, now operating as Creation Gross, remained family-owned across a century and marked its 100th anniversary in 2025. It sells suits, blazers and formalwear through two labels - Carl Gross and CG - Club of Gents - distributing to some 1,200 retailers across 48 export countries.
Tailoring in Bologna since 1932, De Paz cuts bespoke suits and shirts from British and Italian cloth and stocks knitwear and ties. The Via Ugo Bassi shop handles both made-to-measure and ready-to-wear menswear.
German menswear house founded 1939 — precision tailoring, wool suiting, and contemporary silhouettes for business and occasion wear.
Best for German suits and jackets
Digel is a German menswear brand with nearly a century of heritage, tracing its roots to 1939. Based in Nahgold, Germany, the company blends traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation across its suiting and casual lines. The Maestro collection represents the company's premium offering, featuring Super 120s and Super 130s pure wool fabrics that deliver superior drape and year-round performance. Digel's design approach marries contemporary silhouettes with meticulous tailoring, emphasizing precision construction and exceptional fabric quality. The brand is known internationally for its commitment to quality across business suits, sports jackets, trousers, and occasionwear. Digel appeals to men seeking refined, durable garments that balance traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetic sensibilities.
Paris couture tailoring house founded in 1962 by Francesco Smalto, born in Reggio Calabria in 1927. Known for the suspender shirt, the white tuxedo and a distinctive upward-angled 'fish mouth' lapel; clients included Francois Mitterrand and King Hassan II of Morocco.
Best for Couture tailoring for presidents, from a Paris house founded in 1962.
Francesco Smalto was born in Reggio Calabria in 1927 and began tailoring in his hometown, reportedly completing his first garment at age 14. He later worked in Paris under Camps de Luca before founding his own house in February 1962, initially on Rue de la Boetie, selling exclusively made-to-measure suits. His business expanded in 1970 with a new address on Rue Francois 1er, coinciding with a clientele increasingly drawn from film and entertainment circles. Smalto is credited with several signature innovations, including the suspender shirt, the white tuxedo, and the house's distinctive 'fish mouth' lapel - a narrower notch that angles upward. His client list extended into politics, notably French president Francois Mitterrand and King Hassan II of Morocco. Smalto died in 2015 at 87; the house continues under new creative leadership.
Turkey's oldest ready-to-wear house, founded 1924 in Kayseri by Mustafa Bey. Opened its first Istanbul store in 1962 and began exporting in 1979; now run by the third generation of the founding family under the Hatemoğlu 1924 name.
Best for Formal Wear, Suits
Hatemoğlu was founded in 1924 in Kayseri, central Turkey, by Mustafa Bey, who opened the company's first store selling men's and women's coats and other ready-made garments -- making it, by the company's own account, the oldest ready-to-wear clothing business in Turkey. The company expanded its product range through the 1950s as demand for ready-made clothing grew, and became one of the first Anatolian companies to advertise on Radio Ankara. Hatemoğlu opened its first Istanbul store in 1962, moving the brand from a regional Kayseri business into Turkey's largest city, and made its first export shipment, to Switzerland, in 1979. A 1987 fashion show staged in Uludağ was a further step toward positioning the brand nationally rather than as a regional tailoring house. The company remains under the control of the founding family, now in its third generation, trading under the 'Hatemoğlu 1924' name that references the founding year directly. It later added a separate contemporary label, '@html,' introduced in 2003, and launched Hatem Saykı in 2005 as a further extension of the family's clothing business. The core Hatemoğlu line continues to focus on men's formal and business tailoring, built on the company's century of continuous family ownership.
Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta (flagship), with galleries across Jakarta
Iwan Tirta Batik continues the archive of Iwan Tirta (1935–2010), the Yale-trained lawyer who studied with royal batik makers in Surakarta and created more than 10,000 designs. The house sells menswear, womenswear, fabrics, accessories and home pieces from that archive, with bespoke tailoring; its current official store list includes Iwan Tirta Home on Jalan Wijaya XIII plus Plaza Indonesia, Plaza Senayan, Pondok Indah Mall 2 and Alun-Alun Indonesia at Grand Indonesia.
Best for Hand-drawn batik continuing a Javanese maestro's 10,000-design archive
Iwan Tirta was born Nusjirwan Tirtaamidjaja in 1935 in Blora, Central Java, and trained as a lawyer at Yale Law School. His path changed in the 1960s when a research project on the sacred court dances of Central Java drew him toward batik; rather than learning the craft from family, as most batik makers did, he apprenticed under royal batik makers inside the Surakarta palace.
Tirta spent years documenting batik traditions across Indonesian villages, publishing his first book on the subject in 1962. Through the 1970s and 1980s he is credited with an early revival of batik as fashion design, staging elaborate runway collections built on Javanese court motifs; his cloth was worn by public figures including South African president Nelson Mandela.
By his death in 2010, Tirta had created more than 10,000 original batik designs, an archive the brand bearing his name still draws from. Today the label produces menswear, womenswear, fabrics, scarves and bags, and home textiles alongside bespoke tailoring and corporate commissions, positioning itself as custodian of his design record rather than a successor designer.
John Hanna Limited, based in Kells, County Antrim, has been producing Irish linen since 1912, supplying 100% Irish linen fabrics such as Baird McNutt's Glenarm shirting and Glenariff suiting for clothing and household use.
Dublin tailors founded in 1936 by Jim Kevin and Michael Howlin at 39 Nassau Street; since 1973 run by the Kevin family from 31 Nassau Street as a specialist in handwoven Donegal tweed jackets, coats, hats and countrywear.
Best for Donegal tweed caps and Irish country clothing
Kevin & Howlin was founded in 1936 by Jim Kevin and his partner Michael Howlin as tailors and outfitters at 39 Nassau Street in Dublin, specializing in handwoven tweed alongside general tailoring. In 1973, redevelopment of the original premises pushed the business — by then run by Jim's son Noel — to 31 Nassau Street, where it narrowed its focus exclusively to tweed. The shop's jackets, coats, hats and countrywear are woven to its specification in Donegal. Nearly ninety years on, the business remains family-run from the same Nassau Street address, one of Dublin's longest-standing specialist tailoring shops.
Mantua tailoring house tracing to Luigi Bianchi's 1911 shop; parent company Lubiam launched the L.B.M. 1911 line of unlined, garment-dyed blazers in 2005 under CEO Giovanni Bianchi, since expanded into a full sportswear wardrobe.
Best for Jersey polos, deconstructed; Casual tailoring, soft jackets
L.B.M. 1911 traces its name and lineage to 1911, when master tailor Luigi Bianchi opened a small tailoring shop in Mantua (Mantova), Italy, continuing a family trade passed down from his great-grandfather, grandfather and father. His son Edgardo Bianchi later industrialized the operation by introducing assembly-line methods to Italian clothing manufacturing, and by 1941 the company had shortened its name to Lubiam, an acronym of 'Luigi Bianchi Mantova.' The L.B.M. 1911 line itself is more recent: in 2005, Giovanni Bianchi, Lubiam's CEO and style director, launched it as a line of unlined, unstructured blazers, moving away from strictly formal tailoring while keeping the sartorial standards of the parent house. The line became known for garment-dyeing - dyeing finished pieces rather than raw fabric - and has since grown into trousers, sweaters, shirts, bags, shoes, belts and scarves alongside its jackets. Manufacturing has remained in Mantua throughout the company's history.
Larusmiani has traded on Milan's Via Montenapoleone since 1922. The house specializes in bespoke Milanese tailoring and a gentleman's wardrobe of refined accessories from that same address.
Best for Montenapoleone tailoring and refined accessories.
The Copeland family has tailored menswear in Dublin since Hyman Coplan arrived from Lithuania in the early 1900s, with the business formalised by Louis Copeland in 1933. The Capel Street flagship and city-centre branches handle made-to-measure suits and ready-to-wear.
Formalwear house founded in 1914 in Tripoli by the Musani family; relocated to Italy in 1967 and is now headquartered in Milan, producing made-to-measure ceremony and wedding wear for men and women.
Best for Italian ceremony suits and evening dresses
Musani Couture traces its origins to 1914, when the Musani family founded it as a tailoring workshop in Tripoli, expanding through several stores in the Libyan capital by the 1950s. The company relocated to Italy in 1967 and re-established itself in Milan, where it remains headquartered today. The house is built around ceremony and formal-occasion dressing rather than everyday ready-to-wear: it launched its first women's formalwear collection in 1980 and added a dedicated men's ceremony line in 2012. Its current collections span both genders - Musani Couture (tailored and cocktail pieces), Musani Sfilata (evening and "jewel" dresses), Musani Curvy and bridesmaid dresses on the women's side, and Musani Uomo, Wedding 2.0 (groomswear), Diciottesimo Uomo and Daniel Uomo by Musani on the men's side. Musani describes its garments as cut and sewn to each client's own proportions rather than produced as standard sizing, using hand-finished detailing and, in some pieces, precious-stone embellishment. Rather than operating as a single flagship storefront, Musani distributes through a network of partner boutiques specializing in formal and bridal wear across Italy and internationally.
Madison Avenue’s dandy since 1938 — the sharper, wittier cousin of Ivy; Phineas Cole upstairs for the brave. The NYC flagship has remained on the same Madison Avenue and 45th Street corner since the 7 March 1938 opening.
Romanazzi 1930 is a bespoke tailoring house in Turi, Puglia, crafting made-to-measure suits, wedding and ceremony wear from fabrics by Zegna, Holland & Sherry and Drago. Clients book fittings at the Via XX Settembre showroom, where the atelier guides each order from fabric selection through final tailoring.
Best for Bespoke tailoring, made-to-measure suits, wedding wear
The London House of Naples — Mariano’s dynasty that codified Neapolitan tailoring, Agnelli’s wardrobe. Named London House in 1932 for Gennaro's attachment to English fabrics and to London as the then capital of masculine elegance, while cutting the unpadded Neapolitan opposite of Savile Row.
Best for Bespoke Neapolitan jackets from the dynasty that codified them.
Gennaro Rubinacci opened his 'London House' in Naples in 1932, naming it for the Anglophile tastes of his clientele — and from that atelier, with cutter Vincenzo Attolini, emerged the unstructured Neapolitan jacket: canvas lightened, padding removed, the shoulder left natural, sleeves set with the shirring of the spalla camicia. The style conquered the tailoring world; the house that started it remains in family hands, three generations on, with Mariano Rubinacci and his son Luca presiding over the Naples atelier and outposts in Milan and London. The house archive of vintage cloth — thousands of meters of decades-old fabric — is legendary among tailoring clients, who can commission garments from wools no mill weaves today. Bespoke is the core; ties and a small ready-to-wear line carry the taste outward. For tailoring pilgrims Naples has no more historically consequential door.
Ask to see the vintage cloth archive even as a first-time visitor; commissioning from a decades-old length is the house's singular offer, and the family shows it proudly.
Founded in 1941, this Naples leather-jacket house is run by master craftsman Alfredo Rifugio from a workshop in Pompei; each jacket is entirely hand-sewn, some using over 2,000 stitches and up to 80 hours of work across ten artisans.
Founded in Brussels in 1938 by textile merchant Otto Hertz, Scabal invented the fabric swatch book that year and later acquired the Bower Roebuck mill in Huddersfield. Still family-owned, it opened its Savile Row shop in 1972 and also operates a made-to-measure store in Paris.
Best for Luxury cloth and bespoke tailoring for suits and jackets
Scabal was founded in Brussels in 1938 by Otto Hertz, a textile merchant whose company name — Société Commerciale Anglo-Belgo-Allemande-Luxembourgeoise — signaled international ambitions from the outset, sourcing and supplying fine cloth across borders rather than serving a single national market. That same year, Hertz is credited with inventing the fabric swatch book, now a standard tool across the tailoring trade for showing clients cloth options without shipping full bolts. For much of its early history the company operated primarily as a textile supplier rather than a retailer, weaving cloth at its own mill and supplying it to established fashion houses and tailors. It acquired the Bower Roebuck mill in Huddersfield, in England's historic wool-weaving region, giving it direct control over cloth production rather than relying solely on outside weavers. In 1972 Scabal opened its own shop at No. 12 Savile Row in London, placing it on the street most associated with English bespoke tailoring, from where it now supplies cloth daily to neighboring tailoring houses and to customers in more than seventy countries. The company remains independently family-owned and manufactures across Western Europe rather than outsourcing production abroad, and it also operates a made-to-measure location in Paris alongside its Brussels and London addresses.
Steinbock Mode has cut Loden coats and Tracht since Josef and Thusnelda Payr began processing wool textiles in Telfs in 1938, and the label is still run by their grandson from headquarters in Rum, just outside Innsbruck. Three generations on, the workshop still favors boiled-wool jackets and dirndls made for everyday wear over costume pieces.
Best for Loden coats and traditional Tyrolean Tracht
Tom's Tailor (湯姆西服) traces its origin to Shanghai in 1916, when city gentlemen were trading long gowns for Western suits, and moved to Taipei's Bo'ai district in 1945. The house follows the Shanghai tailoring school's sixteen-character rules through more than a hundred hand steps, cutting cloth from Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil and Loro Piana. It describes itself as tailor to successive presidents and public figures. The shop is at 90 Bo'ai Road, Zhongzheng, Taipei.
Best for Unrelated to the German fashion chain of the same English name
Tom's Tailor (湯姆西服) traces its origin to 上海 in 1916. The house connects that period with the move from long gowns toward Western suits among modern professional customers. In 1945 the business continued in 台北博愛特區. Its account names a sixteen-character discipline associated with the original tailoring school and says a suit passes through more than one hundred hand processes. Cloth suppliers include Scabal, Dormeuil and Loro Piana. The firm also describes work for successive presidents and public figures, placing formal public tailoring within its history. These facts establish a bespoke house through its chronology and hand-work methods rather than a general claim of tradition. The 1916 and 1945 dates show the change of city, while the named mills clarify the cloth context. The hand-work sequence explains how the house distinguishes its method. Its tailoring lineage moved from 上海 to 台北 and continued through private commissions.
From its 1910 Trivero wool mill to global menswear power — fabric-first tailoring and the Oasi Zegna forest. In the 1930s the founder planted about 500,000 conifers around the mill; the third generation established Oasi Zegna (c. 100 km²) in 1993.
Best for Suiting fabrics, Triple Stitch shoes, and refined menswear.
Most fashion houses buy their cloth. Zegna is its cloth. The house began in 1910 not as a tailor but as a wool mill in Trivero, in the Biella mountains where Italian wool-making concentrated its genius — and everything Zegna has become grows upward from that thread. The Lanificio still weaves in Piedmont; the suits, the Triple Stitch shoes that carried the house into the weekend, the entire menswear power built on top — all of it stands on fabric the family makes itself, fiber to finish.
That vertical truth changes what the brand means. When Zegna promises quality, it is not vouching for a supplier; it is signing its own work at every stage. The mill's pursuit of finer and finer fibers — the endless refinement of wool that behaves like a liquid — is the house's actual R&D, done in the same valley for over a century.
And then there is the founder's largest product. Around the mill, Ermenegildo Zegna planted a forest — Oasi Zegna, a mountainside of conifers and rhododendrons grown over decades into a vast natural park, free to enter, older than most of the company's competitors. It reframes everything: a wool house that understood a century ago that its raw material was landscape, and invested accordingly. Cloth, clothes, and the mountain that grows both — Zegna's supply chain is visible from space, and it is green.