Rubinacci

Gennaro Rubinacci opened his 'London House' in Naples in 1932, naming it for the Anglophile tastes of his clientele — and from that atelier, with cutter Vincenzo Attolini, emerged the unstructured Neapolitan jacket: canvas lightened, padding removed, the shoulder left natural, sleeves set with the shirring of the spalla camicia. The style conquered the tailoring world; the house that started it remains in family hands, three generations on, with Mariano Rubinacci and his son Luca presiding over the Naples atelier and outposts in Milan and London. The house archive of vintage cloth — thousands of meters of decades-old fabric — is legendary among tailoring clients, who can commission garments from wools no mill weaves today. Bespoke is the core; ties and a small ready-to-wear line carry the taste outward. For tailoring pilgrims Naples has no more historically consequential door.

Ask to see the vintage cloth archive even as a first-time visitor; commissioning from a decades-old length is the house's singular offer, and the family shows it proudly.