Aizenkobo

Aizenkobo is a Kyoto indigo-dyeing workshop and shop set a few blocks from the Nishijin weaving district in Nakagyo Ward, near Nijo Castle. The novelist Junichiro Tanizaki gave the workshop its name on February 18, 1929; the characters read literally as "indigo-love workshop." Now in its third generation, the business began as an obi maker before its current proprietors — Mrs. Utsuki and her artist husband — steered it toward Western-style indigo garments as kimono sales declined. Mrs. Utsuki has described the shift plainly: "I came to see that sales were dropping," she has said of the years after she married into the family shop.

Aizenkobo dyes with fermented natural indigo rather than a synthetic vat, a process that demands repetition: cotton is dipped roughly 100 times to build depth of color, silk closer to 200. Unlike chemical indigo, the workshop says the natural dye deepens rather than fades with washing and wear, and it markets its cloth's antibacterial and fire-resistant qualities as a byproduct of the fermentation method itself rather than any added finish.

The workshop's reputation has traveled well beyond Kyoto — a piece is held in the British Museum's permanent collection — and by its own account roughly nine in ten customers now come from outside Japan. For a shop that began as word-of-mouth obi-making, that is a marked inversion of its original clientele.